Polly Sad Review

From Moscowiki

Polly Sad

Cuisine: Cafes, De-Fusion
Address: 1st Brestskaya ul., 41
Metro: Belorusskaya
Tel: 250-2530
Web: www.pollysad.ru
Open from 12:00 unti last guest

Bling a la Russe

By Reiner Torheit

Polly Sad is a place well-heeled folk go if they’re not really sure what they want to do. Of course, you can eat there, and that’s the main idea – but you could just sit with a cocktail, and allow the deliciously decorated interiors to wash away your blues. In this respect, although it doesn’t style itself as a brasserie, it fits its best traditions – there’s no pressure to order anything, and if you want to linger you’ll be left alone. The staff, in fact, are almost preternaturally modest about the menu. Understated opulence is the watchword – the entire place seems predicated on some future visit by the blingiest of Europe’s premiers, Monsieur Sarkozy.

The name’s unfortunate resonances in English shouldn’t put you off. It means “Polly Garden” in English – and they do indeed have a real front lawn terrace to prove it. Sad you won’t be – it’s a mood-improving haven of low-key unpretentious luxury that incidentally happens to serve food and drinks. The colour-scheme is relaxing and warm – fiercesomely efficient air-conditioning isolates cigarette-smells, but does leave a slightly chilly pall in the air. The staff stay out of your face in a way that’s probably laudable – but a few more of them could be a good move in future.

If M Sarkozy did drop by, however, he wouldn’t appreciate the French Onion Soup (230 Rbs) – oversweet, and topped by some tough bread (microwaved?) and non-gruyere cheese… an unfortunate low-point on the menu. The salads were rather better, with a Portobello Tower of Buffala Mozzarella served with pancetta and clove-infused balsamico (410 Rbs) making an impressively-arranged arrival. The balsamico was really the best, and brightened the tomatoes… which were quite decent considering the frosty time of year. A Vodka & Red-Bull (260 Rbs) was one way of chasing the winter weather away successfully… a classic Gin & Tonic (300 Rbs) rather less successful, and might have benefited from a more upscale gin. Personally I also expected to see a lemon slice in it, but our mission as reviewers is to see what comes. A second salad helped to cheer the soup-occasioned discontent on my companion’s side of the table – Arugula & Garlic Shrimp with Coppa (370 Rbs). The thinly-shaved coppa (a kind of wind-dried bacon) had a rather dominating salty taste which swamped the prawn taste rather indelicately – some people might like that, but many others might have preferred something less dominating (some pecorino?). The arugula (=”rocket”) and dressing, however, were excellent – four generously-sized prawns were served on the side. In keeping with the brasserie approach, we shared a main course of Seabass Filet (890 Rbs) that was grilled to tender perfection, brought to the table (at the waiter’s suggestion) taken off the bone and ready to eat… arranged over some delicate spinach and a coulis of yellow peppers.

Although I may have missed the concept, I found myself wondering what this menu was actually “about” – and who was it for? There didn’t seem to be any theme to it, and it runs the risk of trying to please everyone – which of course, you can never do. I would have preferred to find some new and enticing dishes, but the menu seems directed at more conservative palettes. The environs of the restaurant include several upscale international hotels (Sheraton, Heliopark) and more banks and financial houses than you could feasibly imagine – perhaps a little piquancy (and a hint of Asian cuisine in a self-proclaimed “fusion” menu) might tempt the walk-by clientele more readily?

As a playground for the glamour crowd Polly Sad comes into its own in the sphere of desserts. If you’re sated after your mains you might try the Fresh Figs for 350 Rbs (which seems a little expensive, for figs?). Those who’d forgone a main course of their own could go to the other extreme with Lakre di Bosco (370 Rbs), a chocolate and cream combination of sinful indulgence. A large pot of Grun Matinee green tea with cornflower & sunflower leaves (270 Rbs) on the side – cheerfully refilled without having to ask - wound things up very pleasantly, although the caffeine-fan had to try a short expresso (140 Rbs) for the sake of completeness. Mineral water came in at 130 Rbs to complete things.

“Polly Sad” would be an ideal place to take a date – the d?cor will schmooze and impress, and the cuisine errs on the safe side of things. If you’re trying to impress, he/she may indeed never notice that there was a 20% discount from midday until 4pm – this is really a matter you can keep to yourself. If you’re splitting the bill for lunch anyhow, a fixed-price 350 Rbs Business Lunch menu has more choices and variety than you’ll find almost anywhere else.

20.03.08