Last week we set off to try out Goodman Steak House. As all meat-eating expats know, Moscow is truly in dire need of another quality venue to supply the goods for all of our steak needs (up until now, there was really only one place that came to mind...) I was admittedly a little skeptical about what to expect, given that so many steak houses before it were inevitably forced to do their own walk of shame out of town or were subjected to an empty existence without clientele, relying on only the crumbs thrown from stubborn kryshas. Nevertheless, in my opinion, Goodman will begin to finally fill the steak gap in Moscow's restaurant scene.

Goodman Steak House is set slightly back off Tverskaya (in between Tverskaya and Mayakovskaya metro stations), which allows for a quiet dining experience in what is otherwise a noisy part of the city. The main part of the restaurant is dimly lit with a sleek, modern design. We opted, however, to sit on the patio and enjoy a cool summer evening outside. The hostess let us know that if it got a bit too chilly on the patio, our waiter would be more than happy to bring us a little throw-blanket to keep warm - unless we wanted to move and sit inside, which could also be arranged. In addition to throw-blankets, Goodman also offers valet parking for those brave enough to purchase and drive cars in this city.

The menu was a breath of fresh air, as it is not one of those five-hundred page tomes found in so many other Moscow restaurants. After ordering beers (I took a 0.4L Fosters ($4), while my dining partner sampled a 0.3L Radeburger ($3)) we were brought fresh bread with garlic and herb butter and two tasty (and complimentary!) mini-bruschettas. There is a succinct selection of cold appetizers ranging from $7.50 to $39, including beef carpaccio, chicken liver pate and raw oysters (which would probably impress the socks off young dates *wink wink*). Next are salads and hot appetizers. I decided to go with the grilled mushroom salad with pumpkin seed dressing and prosciutto ($14), while my dining partner chose the tiger shrimp sauted in a tomato-based garlic and herb sauce.

We couldn't possibly have waited much more than five minutes before both of our appetizers were served. Even if all else had gone wrong (and it hadn't), Goodman sure gets good points for presentation. The salad turned out to be a delicate mix of spring greens with a dose of sauted mushrooms. The pumpkin seed dressing was unusual and palate-pleasing. Meanwhile, the tiger shrimp (which can also be ordered as a full entre) were tender, juicy and the sauce was wonderful. US out-of-towners might be slightly taken back by presentation, which includes the decapitated heads and buggy little eyes of each of the eight scrumptious shrimp.

Moving on to entrees, the menu offers rib eye, New York strip, filet mignon ($26-28) and burgers ($12.50-14.50). Those looking for something other than beef can choose from rack of lamb ($26), pork ribs ($22), braised lamb shank in rosemary ($19), or chicken schnitzel ($10.80). Each of these entrees is served with a sauce that comes separately, (mustard, pepper, mushroom and Goodman's specialty). Seafood lovers may choose from a selection of whitefish, a full shrimp entree and a salmon steak ($22-24). Side dishes ($4-10) include mashed potatoes with Roquefort cheese and fresh spinach served with a cream sauce and cheese - as well as grilled veggies and chanterelle mushrooms. It looks like vegetarians also have a viable option with the pasta plates ($12.50), which include both veggie linguini and mushroom linguini.

Although everything looked tempting, we were here to sample the steaks. My dining partner chose the rib eye with the mashed potatoes and Goodman sauce and I decided to go with the filet mignon and fresh spinach and the mushroom sauce. I like my steaks well done (which I am aware some may consider a crime against steak) so I was expecting to have to wait a bit longer for my entree. But we did not wait long at all, and not only were our entrees both served at the same time (*gasp*) but both of our orders were cooked *exactly* the way we had requested. The filet mignon - even at "well-done" - was juicy and melt-in-your-mouth tender, truly a treat. The mushroom sauce was full of flavor, but not too rich. The rib eye was equally tender and juicy, and the slightly tangy Goodman sauce really is an excellent choice for any steak on the menu. As for presentation, the steaks (and other meat dishes - we were spying on the surrounding tables as well) are served separately from the side dishes on their own plate. While the mashed potato side dish was very good, the spinach in cream sauce blew both of us away.

Unfortunately, I did not get to finish all of the spinach due to the only quirk in the evening. I had haphazardly placed my utensils in such a way on my plate as to inadvertently give the "I'm done" signal to the waiter who happened to be nearby. I was perplexed as he began collecting my plates without asking. When he began to walk away, I finally realized that my delicious but unfinished dinner was being taken away from me. "Wait!" I gasped. "I'm not done yet! Can I please have it back?" The waiter was at once so stunned and horrified that I swear he was frozen in place for a moment. "But" you're not finished? I'm - so sorry!!" I got my mignon back, but my spinach was lost forever.

Aside from what was obviously simply an awkward mistake, the service was attentive and very pleasant, adding to the overall enjoyable and unpretentious atmosphere. They have got it down right, and it would appear that a lot of agree. The patio was completely full by 9pm and there were several more groups inside when we left, opposed to a near-empty room when we entered at 7.

Dessert selections include apple pie with ice cream, New York cheesecake, Goodman's own cheesecake, fruit sorbet, ice cream and a fruit plate ($5-8). We decided to share the Goodman cheesecake and see how it might be different from a New York cheesecake. This selection turned out to be the most underwhelming event of the evening. We were served a rather large portion of cheesecake with a fresh strawberry sauce drizzled over it. The sauce was lovely, but the cake itself was missing a certain something taste-wise.

Those who enjoy a good wine will not get any tips from me, as I do not know my wines and prefer a nice beer or five. Goodman, however, offers both a full bar with well drinks ranging from $2.50-29 and a full wine menu with reds, whites and rosettes from France, Italy and Chili. Wine per the glass looks to range about $7-9, while by-the-bottle prices naturally range anywhere from $18 to $180 (or thereabouts).

Overall, we had a lovely evening. This is the perfect place to take a date, a business partner or out-of-town visitors. It's also the perfect place to get a good steak (and I would venture to say that Goodman most probably serves up a worthy burger). The restaurant's slogan may sound a little silly in English ("Goodman: a good steak for a good man"), but rest assured that even if you are a bad man, your steak will still be good.

28.08.04